top of page

PINS FOR THE WIN!
about pins...

​

BUT, what are the main types?  In general thin pins are suited for lightweight fabrics, thick pins are better suited for heavier fabrics (e.g. wool).  I’ve narrowed it down to six.

​

1. Glass Head Pins

A favourite of mine, but also one of the most widely used pins by all sewers.  Here’s a tip though, nickel-plated steel are strong but not overly flexible, where as a softer metal shaft will bend easier.  The other bonus is the glass head will not melt if you iron it, so fantastic if you need to hold something in place while you iron it.

​

2. Ball-Point Pins

Used for sewing stretch knit fabrics as they won’t damage the fabric as much as a normal pin.  The ball point allows the pin to slide between the threads rather than breaking them.  Considering knit fabrics are one continuous loop of thread, this is important!

​

3. Silk Pins (or Entomology Pins)

Silk is a delicate material and the fibres will actually break if you pierce them with a thick pin.  Using extra fine pins helps in reducing the risk of breaking the silk fibres.  They are also all metal and sometimes they are called dressmakers pins.  This is a circumstance where it is best to ensure your pin matches your fabric.

​

I use entomology pins for working with fine fabrics or if I need something to hold in place and not damage the surrounding fabric.

​

Tip:  test your pin on a scrap to see how the fabric recovers.  Also keeping pins within your seam allowance to help avoid unwanted holes.

​

4. Quilting Pins

Classic quilting pins are designed to go through many layers of fabrics without bending (I tend to use curved safety pins for pinning quilts).  As most of the ironing happens before and after pinning they tend to have plastic heads, rather than glass.  As always, check your pin vs fabric choice to make sur the pins are not going to damage your fabric.

​

5. Plastic Head Pins

I love these for craft felt projects.  The plastic ends come in fun designs and colours.  As you are normally just using them to hold something in place they don’t have to be high quality so they aren’t that expensive.  Plus they can make a fun pin cushion display.

​

6. T-Pins

Actually not something I’ve used, but a friend who is an upholsterer, uses them all the time.  Apparently great for holding down upholstery, and I imagine they would be handy to hold craft projects that require ironing as they have a useful “T end” to them in metal.

​

Remember – NEVER sew over your pins.  I was taught you could, but having learnt a bit more about my sewing machine, but its not actually a good idea.  Apart from the risk of breaking your needle, you can actually put your machine’s timing out or damage your bobbin case, resulting in an expensive visit to the Machine Dr.

It doesn’t matter if you are a quilter, home sewer, professional seamstress, upholster, etc., there is something essential in your kit that we all use.  Pins!

Pins.jpg

The humble pin, does so much for us, but what do we really know about the pin?  Let’s change that today!  Did you know that in the early to mid 1800’s British inventors patented the first machine to produce sewing pins?  The Chinese were using enamel & lapel pins as far back as 1271AD. 

 

So for quilting pins, what do you need?  Given it needs to go through the fabric layers and keep everything firmly in place, I look for something that is long & strong!  (Like my coffee…)  I like glass head pins & entomology pins.  Glass head pins also come in different lengths and widths. 

Tutorial - FPP: About
bottom of page